How to Prune Your Crepe Myrtle Without 'Crepe Murder'

Every winter, well-meaning gardeners across Australia take to their crepe myrtles with loppers and chainsaws, hacking away at branches in the belief that severe pruning leads to better flowers. The result is a phenomenon so common it has its own name: "Crepe Murder." This brutal topping leaves trees with ugly, knobby stumps that produce weak, whippy growth and actually diminishes the tree's natural beauty.

The good news is that crepe myrtles require very little pruning to thrive and flower prolifically. Understanding the right techniques will help you maintain a healthy, beautiful tree that showcases its natural form while producing abundant blooms year after year.

What is 'Crepe Murder'?

Crepe Murder refers to the practice of severely cutting back crepe myrtle branches to short stubs, typically 30-60cm above ground level or to thick scaffold branches. This drastic pruning removes all of the previous year's growth and destroys the tree's natural vase-shaped structure. Over time, the repeated cuts create unsightly knobs at the cut points, and the tree produces a dense cluster of thin, weak shoots rather than strong, graceful branches.

The myth that hard pruning creates more flowers persists because crepe myrtles do bloom on new wood. However, a properly maintained tree produces just as many flowers as a heavily pruned one, on stronger branches that can hold the flower clusters upright rather than drooping under their weight.

When to Prune

The best time to prune crepe myrtles in Australia is during late winter, typically July to early August, while the tree is still dormant but just before new growth begins in spring. Pruning during dormancy allows you to clearly see the branch structure without leaves obscuring your view, and it gives cuts time to heal before the growing season.

Avoid pruning in autumn, as this can stimulate new growth that will be damaged by frost. Similarly, pruning during active growth in spring and summer should be limited to removing spent flower clusters (deadheading) or addressing immediate problems like damaged branches.

The Right Way to Prune

Proper crepe myrtle pruning focuses on three main tasks: removing suckers, thinning crossing branches, and light shaping. None of these require heavy cutting, and most mature crepe myrtles need only 15-20 minutes of annual maintenance.

Step 1: Remove Suckers

Start at ground level and remove any suckers growing from the base of the tree or from the roots. These thin shoots divert energy from the main trunk and detract from the tree's form. Cut them off at their point of origin, as close to the trunk or ground as possible. This is especially important for trees trained to a single trunk or multi-trunk form.

Step 2: Remove Crossing and Rubbing Branches

Look inside the canopy for branches that cross through the centre or rub against each other. Rubbing branches create wounds that can become entry points for disease. Remove the weaker or more awkwardly positioned of the two crossing branches, cutting back to where it joins a larger branch. This opens up the centre of the tree, improving air circulation and light penetration.

Step 3: Remove Dead or Damaged Wood

Cut out any branches that are clearly dead, broken, or diseased. Dead wood is often a different colour to living tissue and won't have any buds. Remove damaged branches back to healthy wood or to their point of origin on a larger branch.

Step 4: Light Tip Pruning (Optional)

If your tree has grown larger than desired or you want to encourage branching, you can tip-prune the ends of branches. Cut back the previous season's growth by about one-third, making cuts just above an outward-facing bud. This encourages the tree to branch and creates a denser canopy without destroying the natural shape.

Correcting Previous Crepe Murder

If you've inherited a tree that's been topped for years, or if you've committed crepe murder yourself, don't despair. Crepe myrtles are remarkably resilient and can be restored, though it takes several years of patient work.

The Restoration Process

1. Year One: Allow the new shoots to grow without any pruning. The tree needs to rebuild its energy reserves and develop some structure.
2. Year Two: In late winter, select 2-3 of the strongest, best-positioned shoots from each cut point and remove the rest. These will become the new main branches.
3. Year Three onwards: Continue to train the selected shoots as new scaffold branches. Eventually, you may be able to remove some of the old knobby stubs if new growth develops below them.

Full restoration can take 3-5 years, but the result is a tree that looks much more natural and requires far less ongoing maintenance than a tree that continues to be topped annually.

Special Pruning Situations

Training Young Trees

For newly planted crepe myrtles, early training establishes good structure. Decide whether you want a single-trunk or multi-trunk form. For single trunk, select the strongest upright stem and remove competitors. For multi-trunk, keep 3-5 well-spaced trunks and remove all others. Beyond this initial training, let the tree develop naturally.

Size Control

If your crepe myrtle is outgrowing its space, the best long-term solution is replacement with a more appropriately sized variety. However, you can manage size through regular tip pruning, which keeps the tree compact while maintaining its natural form. Remove up to one-third of the previous year's growth in late winter, always cutting to an outward-facing bud.

Deadheading for Repeat Blooms

Removing spent flower clusters during summer can encourage repeat blooming. Use secateurs to cut the flower cluster and a short section of the stem below it. This isn't essential, as crepe myrtles will bloom repeatedly regardless, but it can extend the flowering display and improve appearance.

The Myth of More Flowers

Perhaps the most persistent myth is that heavy pruning produces more flowers. In reality, a crepe myrtle that receives only light maintenance pruning will produce just as many flowers as one that's been heavily topped. The difference is in the quality of the display.

Topped trees produce flower clusters on weak, thin stems that often bend or break under the weight of the blooms. The flowers end up at eye level or lower, on a tree with an unnatural shape. A properly pruned tree produces flowers on strong branches that hold the clusters upright, creating a spectacular display at the top of a gracefully shaped tree.

So this winter, put down the chainsaw and pick up the secateurs. Your crepe myrtle will thank you with years of beautiful, natural form and abundant summer flowers.